Frequently Asked Questions
Getting Started
What comes in my grow kit?
Your kit includes:
- 10-pound colonized mushroom block (substrate fully grown through with mycelium)
- Spray bottle for misting
- Recipe cards
- Growing instructions specific to your variety
The block arrives ready to fruit—no waiting for colonization. You'll need to provide a spot with indirect light and temperatures between 55-75°F depending on your variety.
I've never grown mushrooms before. Is this really for beginners?
Yes. These are the same blocks local farmers use in commercial production. Blue Oyster tolerates a wide temperature range (55-75°F) and fruits reliably. Mushrooms do require daily attention—two minutes of misting and checking. They're living organisms, not a "set it and forget it" project. Most beginners succeed on their first try when they follow the instructions.
How much time does this take each day?
Plan for 2-3 minutes twice daily. You'll mist the mushrooms, provide fresh air, and check their progress. The growing cycle from setup to first harvest takes 7-20 days depending on variety.
Where should I keep my mushroom block?
Mushroom blocks are social—they want to be near you! And you're doing this for fun, so keep them as part of your family, as you would a pet.
Best locations:
- Kitchen or bathroom counters (easy water access, naturally higher humidity, you'll see them often)
- Areas with gentle air movement
- Spots with indirect light
- Places where you spend time—they're fun to watch grow!
Avoid:
- Direct sunlight (dries out the block)
- Heating vents (temperature fluctuations)
- Stagnant corners with no air movement (mushrooms need fresh air exchange)
- Basement corners with no airflow
Can I grow mushrooms in my apartment?
Yes! Apartments are ideal for mushroom growing. You don't need outdoor space or special equipment. A 10-pound block takes up about as much counter space as a toaster. Just ensure your apartment stays within the temperature range for your variety (usually 55-75°F), and you have access to indirect light. I've had customers successfully grow mushrooms in studio apartments, dorm rooms, and RVs. The only limitation is extreme temperature—if your apartment regularly exceeds 80°F in summer without AC, you might struggle with heat-sensitive varieties like shiitake.
What's the difference between your kits and grocery store mushroom kits?
Three significant differences: block size, block vitality, and variety quality.
Grocery store kits use 5-pound blocks that yield maybe 1 pound total. Our 10-pound commercial-grade blocks yield 2-3 pounds on the first flush.
Big box store kits are designed to sit on shelves for months, making them slower to initiate and pin. Our blocks are made for commercial production where farmers expect fast growth. They don't store well and should be started soon after you receive them—they're living organisms optimized for performance, not shelf life.
We OFFER the same restaurant-quality varieties we supplied to James Beard and Michelin star chefs for a decade—Lion's Mane with its seafood-like texture, rich umami shiitake, and delicate Blue Oysters.
How long do grow kits last before I need to use them?
Start within 1-2 weeks of receiving your block. Store in a fridge if you can't start immediately. These are living organisms—you can't hold them indefinitely. The mycelium is actively metabolizing the substrate. In the fridge (35-40°F), this process slows but doesn't stop. Never freeze your block—that kills the mycelium.
Choosing Products
Which mushroom variety should I start with?
For absolute beginners, Blue Oyster mushrooms are most forgiving. They tolerate temperature swings (55-75°F), fruit reliably, and show visible progress quickly—you'll see pins within 5-7 days. They're prolific producers, often yielding 2-3 pounds from a 10-pound block. Oysters also have the highest chance of giving a second or third flush.
Lion's Mane is my second recommendation for beginners—it's dramatic to watch grow (those cascading white spines!), and it tolerates slightly drier conditions than oysters.
Shiitake requires more attention to temperature (55-65°F ideal) and humidity, making it better for your second or third grow. That said, shiitake rewards careful growers with incredible umami-rich flavor you can't buy in stores.
What do these mushrooms taste like?
Blue Oyster: Delicate, slightly sweet flavor with a tender texture when cooked properly. They're versatile—sauté them in butter, add to stir-fries, or roast until crispy.
Shiitake: Rich, meaty umami flavor that intensifies when dried. They're the backbone of Asian cuisine for good reason.
Lion's Mane: Seafood-like texture (think crab or lobster) with a mild, slightly sweet taste. My favorite for "crab" cakes or as a scallop substitute.
These aren't bland grocery store mushrooms—they're varieties chefs seek out specifically for their distinctive flavors. Harvest at the right stage and cook them properly, and you'll understand why restaurants pay premium prices for these varieties.
How much will I harvest from one block?
Expect 2-3 pounds on the first flush for all varieties. Subsequent flushes are smaller. Your actual yield depends on growing conditions—consistent humidity, proper temperatures, and good fresh air exchange produce the best results.
Can I grow the same block multiple times?
Oyster & Lion's Mane: Yes, expect 2-3 flushes by continuing to mist. After one week, if you don't see new growth, try soaking the block for 12-24 hours. Keep it in the bag when you soak it.
Shiitake: Subsequent flushes are more difficult because the blocks are totally exposed/unwrapped, meaning they dry out faster and have higher rates of contamination. I find it best to put it out in your garden after the first flush and let Mother Nature take over.
What's the difference between these varieties and grocery store mushrooms?
Grocery store mushrooms—Agaricus bisporus, which includes cremini, white button, and portobello—grow on composted animal manure in the dark. Our mushrooms grow on cellulose in the light. This means a wider range of flavors and nutritional benefits.
These specialty mushrooms are delicate and don't hold up well to cross-country shipping. Growing at home means harvest-to-table freshness. The flavor difference is dramatic—especially with shiitake, where fresh versus dried-and-rehydrated is like comparing fresh basil to dried oregano.
Do you sell mushroom spores or spawn?
No, we sell ready-to-fruit blocks. Here's the difference: spores are like seeds (they start the mushroom lifecycle), spawn is mycelium growing on grain, and our blocks are fully colonized substrate ready to produce mushrooms. If you bought spawn, you'd need to mix it with substrate, wait 3-6 weeks for colonization, then wait another 2-4 weeks for fruiting. Our blocks skip all that—they're ready to fruit within days. This is what commercial growers use. We're selling you the endpoint of a complex cultivation process, so you can go straight to the exciting part: growing and harvesting fresh mushrooms.
Can I choose when my kit ships?
No. Blocks ship within 1-2 weeks of you placing your order, Monday through Wednesday (so they aren't sitting in a shipping depot over the weekend). We ship when the mycelium/block is ready, so we don't always ship immediately.
Please order at a time when you'll be home for a few weeks to receive and care for your mushroom block. If you're gifting the block, please ensure it's a convenient time for the recipient to receive it—or give a gift certificate instead.
Growing Process
How do I start my grow kit?
See our detailed growing instructions [LINK TO DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS].
Oyster & Lion's Mane: Cut a 6-inch X in the plastic bag. Mist the exposed surface.
Shiitake: Remove completely from the bag and loosely cover with a homemade humidity tent/plastic bag.
Let the block come to room temperature (4-6 hours) before starting. You'll see pins within 3-14 days depending on variety.
How often should I mist my mushrooms?
Twice daily minimum, three times if you're home during the day. Each misting session, spray 10-15 pumps directly onto the mushroom cluster and the exposed substrate. The goal is keeping the surface visibly moist without waterlogging.
In dry climates or heated homes (humidity below 40%), you'll need to mist more frequently. If the surface looks dry or mushrooms feel papery, increase misting. If you see standing water or the substrate feels soggy, reduce frequency.
What does "fresh air exchange" mean and why does it matter?
Mushrooms breathe. They consume oxygen and release CO2. In high CO2 environments (above 1,000 ppm), mushrooms develop long stems and small caps—they're literally stretching toward fresh air.
Fresh air exchange (FAE) means replacing that CO2-rich air with oxygen-rich air. After each misting, fan the opening for 30 seconds to create airflow. This brings in oxygen and removes excess CO2.
If outside temps are appropriate (between 50 and 70°F), you can move your block outside for a portion or all of the time. Keep it in the shade, on a porch on the north side of your home.
When will I see mushrooms starting to grow?
Oysters & Shiitake: 3-5 days after initiating fruiting
Lion's Mane: 10-14 days
Once pins form, growth accelerates dramatically. Oyster mushrooms can double in size daily. You'll literally see visible growth between morning and evening misting sessions. This rapid growth is why mushrooms need consistent moisture—they're 90% water and building that mass quickly.
How fast do mushrooms grow once they start?
Exponentially fast. Once pins form, oyster mushrooms reach harvest size in 3-5 days. You'll see dramatic overnight growth—mushrooms that were quarter-sized in the morning can be 3-4 inches across by evening. This is why commercial growers harvest daily. Shiitake grows slightly slower but still reaches maturity in 5-7 days after pinning. Lion's Mane develops over 7-10 days, growing those distinctive cascading spines gradually. The growth rate is genuinely thrilling to watch—it's one reason home growers get hooked. Set up a time-lapse on your phone. You'll be amazed at how much changes in 24 hours.
How do I know when to harvest?
Oyster mushrooms: When caps flatten out but before edges start curling upward—usually when they're 2-4 inches across. Wait too long and they'll release spores (white powder everywhere) and become tougher.
Shiitake: When caps are 80% open but still slightly curved, with visible white gills underneath. Don't wait until caps are completely flat—shelf life declines, though flavor remains good.
Lion's Mane: When the spines are 0.25-0.5 inches long and still bright white. Once spines start yellowing, harvest immediately—the texture becomes tougher.
General rule: when in doubt, harvest earlier rather than later.
How do I harvest without damaging the block?
Oyster: Pluck off the entire cluster at the base where it connects to the substrate. Don't pick individual mushrooms—harvest the full cluster at once.
Shiitake: Cut at the base with a clean knife or scissors.
Lion's Mane: Pluck off the entire cluster at the base.
After harvest, remove any remaining stem bits. Clean the harvest site gently. No need to rest the block in the fridge.
What do I do with the block after the first harvest?
Oyster & Lion's Mane: No need to put in the fridge. Just keep misting. If you don't see new growth after one week, try soaking the block for 12-24 hours (keep it in the bag when you soak).
Shiitake: Move it outside to your garden and let Mother Nature take over. Subsequent indoor flushes are difficult because the blocks are fully exposed and dry out quickly with higher contamination rates.
What do I do with my grow block after I've finished harvesting?
Grow blocks are great to compost outdoors! Keep an eye on them—you may get another flush in the spring after some rain. Grow blocks are an aphrodisiac for worms, so place it in your compost or garden to invite and feed the worms.
Can I grow mushrooms in my basement?
Yes, if your basement stays within the right temperature range and has gentle air flow. Mushrooms need air movement—they exhale and build a cloud of CO2 around themselves. Without airflow, they'll suffocate.
Basements work well for oyster mushrooms that tolerate 55-75°F. Shiitake prefers cooler (55-65°F), making basements ideal if they don't exceed 70°F. The main challenge is light—mushrooms need some indirect light to develop properly. A basement window works, or position near a doorway where light enters.
What temperature is too hot or too cold?
For pinset (initial fruiting): Temperature range is important. Above 80°F, mycelium growth slows dramatically and contamination risk increases. Over 65°F, potential contaminants like trichoderma have a greater opportunity to take hold and out-compete the fungus.
Blue Oyster: 55-75°F (most flexible)
Shiitake: 55-65°F (struggles above 70°F)
Lion's Mane: 60-70°F
After pins form: Most mushrooms can tolerate cooler temps, down to 45°F, but you'll see slower growth.
Below 50°F before pinning, fruiting stalls. The mycelium isn't dead, but it won't produce mushrooms. Temperature stability matters—wild fluctuations stress the mycelium more than consistently being slightly outside optimal range.
Troubleshooting
My mushrooms are growing really long stems with tiny caps. What's wrong?
High CO2 levels. Your mushrooms are stretching toward fresh air. Fix it: after each misting, fan the opening for 30-60 seconds to bring in fresh air. You can also create small ventilation holes (1-2 pinholes in the plastic).
If outside temps are appropriate (50-70°F), move your block outside to the shade. The mushrooms are safe to eat but will have less ideal texture and appearance. Your next flush will look better with improved air exchange.
There's yellow liquid pooling on my mushrooms. Is something wrong?
Yellow liquid directly on mushrooms is a problem—that's an opportunity for bacterial contamination. There should never be liquid pooling on the mushrooms themselves.
Yellow liquid in the bag, away from the mushrooms, is fine. That's metabolite staining—your mycelium releasing compounds as a stress response from dry conditions or high CO2.
Slightly yellow or dry mushrooms should be harvested and eaten. If mushrooms are wet or slimy, don't eat them.
I see green mold growing on my block. Can I still use it?
Green mold (usually Trichoderma) likes high CO2 and moisture. You can eat mushrooms if they aren't touching the green mold. Green mold on the mushrooms means the mushrooms should be tossed.
If the mold is small (under 1 inch), you can try cutting away that section with a clean knife, extending 1-2 inches beyond visible mold. Resume fruiting quickly—proper conditions (good airflow, appropriate moisture) usually allow the block to ward off contamination.
Replacement policy: If green mold takes over in the first 10 days, we'll replace it. If it appears after 10 days, that likely happened after the block was opened—we can't promise replacements in that case.
My mushrooms feel slimy. Are they safe to eat?
No, don't eat slimy mushrooms. Sliminess indicates bacterial contamination, likely from overwatering. Mushrooms don't exude water—if they're slimy, it's bacteria growing in excess moisture.
If it's early in the growing process, stop watering and let them dry out. Check for off smells—mushrooms should smell earthy and pleasant, never sour or rotten. Fresh mushrooms should feel moist but firm, never slimy.
Nothing is happening. No pins after two weeks. What should I check?
Start with temperature—is your growing area within optimal range for your variety? Use an actual thermometer; don't guess. Next, check moisture: is the exposed substrate surface staying visibly moist? If it's drying out between mistings, increase frequency. Verify you're providing light—mushrooms need some indirect light to initiate pinning. Complete darkness can delay fruiting. Check that you actually cut the bag open adequately—a small slit won't provide enough space for fruiting. Finally, confirm the block wasn't previously frozen or stored above 50°F for extended periods before you started. If all conditions are correct but still no pins after 3 weeks, contact us. Some blocks are duds, and we'll replace them.
Can I save a grow kit that dried out?
Possibly. Move it outside into the rain if temps are appropriate (50-70°F)—this is probably the best option. Or rehydrate gradually: mist heavily 4-5 times daily for 2-3 days. You're trying to wake up dormant mycelium.
After 3-4 days of heavy misting, watch for signs of recovery—mycelium should look white and healthy again (not dried and crusty). First flush yield will likely be reduced.
My Oyster/Lion's Mane is pinning inside the bag, not at the X. Should I cut another hole?
No, don't cut another hole—the block will dry out too much. You can slightly expand the current hole. The mushrooms will stretch and grow out of the hole you already made. They're opportunistic and will fruit where conditions are right.
My mushrooms are releasing white powder everywhere. What is it?
Spores! You waited slightly too long to harvest. Mushrooms exist to reproduce, and spore release is how they do it. Once mushrooms mature fully, they drop spores—millions of them. For white oyster mushrooms or Lion's Mane, spores appear as white powder. For shiitake or brown mushrooms, spores are dark brown.
This is completely natural and harmless, though some people are sensitive to heavy spore exposure (it can be allergenic). If you're concerned about air quality and exposure to spores, move your grow block outside or to the garage as it nears maturity. Harvest before full maturity next time. Clean up spores with a damp cloth. The mushrooms are still safe to eat, though they'll be past prime texture-wise.
The substrate smells sour or like ammonia. Is that normal?
No, that's contamination. Healthy colonized substrate smells earthy and mushroomy—pleasant and fungal. Sour smells indicate bacterial growth. Ammonia smell means the mycelium is breaking down protein, which happens when blocks age past viability or when contamination is present. If the smell is mild and the block is on its second or third flush, it might just be exhausted—harvest what you can and compost it. If smell is strong and this is your first flush, the block has a serious contamination issue. Don't eat mushrooms from foul-smelling blocks. Contact us—we'll send a replacement. This is rare with our quality control, but it happens occasionally.
I'm going on vacation for a week. Can I pause my grow?
Option 1: If you haven't initiated fruiting yet, just keep it refrigerated.
Option 2: Hire a Mushroom Sitter to visit and water it twice a day.
Option 3: Ask a friend to 'host' your mushroom block for a few days.
Option 4: Take it with you on vacation like a pet or houseplant. It's compact and just needs misting!
How do I keep my mushrooms fresh after harvest?
Keep your mushrooms in a paper bag in the fridge to let them breathe. Do not store mushrooms in plastic, glass, or ceramic—they need airflow or they'll get slimy.
The bag was open when I received it. Is this a problem?
No! We make a small hole to expel air before packing your grow kit into the box for shipping. This ensures maximum freshness. We've had no issues with contamination from this practice.
How do I create more humidity for my grow block?
Option 1: Mist your block at least 3 times a day.
Option 2: Place the block in a plastic bin with vermiculite in the bottom. Keep the vermiculite moist.
Option 3 (shiitake only): Using a thin plastic grocery sack, make a loose tent over your grow block. Blocks need to breathe, so keep this loose. Do NOT try this with Oyster or Lion's Mane—they have higher fresh air requirements.
What if I removed the bag from the grow block?
Shiitake: These are the only blocks that require the bag to be fully removed—you did it right.
Lion's Mane and Oyster: Should NOT have the bag removed. If you removed it by accident, wrap the block in plastic wrap to retain moisture. Cut slashes in the plastic wrap as you would if the bag was still intact.
Why are there fruit flies around my grow block?
Fruit flies love moisture and bacteria. Make sure you aren't over-misting the grow block—this attracts flies.
To dissuade fruit flies: place a small cup of apple cider vinegar covered by plastic wrap with tiny holes in the top in the same room as the grow block. The fruit flies will be attracted to the vinegar and get trapped inside the plastic wrap.
Shipping & Orders
How are mushroom blocks shipped?
We ship blocks in insulated packaging via USPS Priority Mail or UPS Ground, typically 2-5 day transit depending on your location. Blocks ship in their growing bags inside a box with insulation to maintain stable temperatures during transit. We include your spray bottle, recipe cards, and instructions. We ship Monday through Wednesday only, ensuring blocks don't sit in warehouses over weekends. When your order ships, you'll receive tracking information.
When will my order ship?
Expect your block to ship Monday-Wednesday within 1-2 weeks of when you place your order. We don't coordinate timing—blocks ship when they're ready. Lead time during busy seasons (fall, winter, pre-holidays) may extend to 2-3 weeks.
What if I'm not home when my block arrives?
Blocks can sit out for a few hours, no problem. More of a concern in extreme temperatures. If you know delivery timing, you can leave instructions with the carrier for a safe drop location. If a block arrives compromised due to delivery delays, contact us with photos within 24 hours of receipt.
Do you ship year-round?
We ship most of the year but pause during extreme temperature periods. We may delay shipments during heat waves when transit temperatures exceed 90°F for extended periods. Winter shipping pauses if your region experiences sustained below-freezing temperatures that could damage blocks in transit. We'll notify you if your order timing falls during a shipping pause. Spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) are optimal shipping seasons with fewer temperature concerns.
What's your return policy?
We guarantee viable blocks. If your block arrives contaminated, damaged, or fails to fruit despite following instructions, contact us with photos within 3 days of receipt. We'll troubleshoot with you first—often it's a simple growing condition adjustment. If the block is genuinely compromised, we'll send a replacement. We're a small business committed to your success.
We cannot accept returns because these are living organisms.
Can I order multiple blocks at once?
Yes! Multiple block orders receive a shipping discount. Practical consideration: unless you have dedicated refrigerator space, stagger your growing. Starting 2-3 blocks simultaneously means harvesting 4-9 pounds of mushrooms in a 1-2 week window—that's a lot to use fresh. Most home growers prefer starting one block, harvesting, then starting the next.
Stay tuned for our subscription plan to help you keep a consistent, monthly supply.
Do you ship to my state?
We ship to all US states except Hawaii and Alaska (shipping transit times are too long for live mushroom blocks). We also can't ship to US territories due to agricultural restrictions. Within the continental US, we ship everywhere, though extreme climate regions (very hot or very cold) may experience seasonal shipping pauses. If you're in a climate extreme area, we'll coordinate timing carefully to ensure your block arrives in good condition.
About Us
What's your background in mushroom growing?
I ran a commercial mushroom farm for ten years, supplying restaurants, distributors like Sid Wainer, and farms across New England. Before mushrooms, I operated a vegetable CSA. I switched to mushrooms when land costs made scaling vegetables impossible—mushrooms don't require sunlight or extensive acreage. I learned by doing: a generous mushroom producer mentored me, I made countless mistakes, and I refined techniques through years of daily growing. The varieties we offer now are the ones I grew commercially—shiitake, oysters, Lion's Mane—for James Beard and Michelin star chefs. These kits represent a decade of accumulated expertise packaged for home growers.
Why did you close your commercial farm?
Growing commercially is seven-days-a-week work. After ten years, I needed to step back from that intensity. Mushrooms don't wait—they fruit when they're ready, harvest windows are tight, and restaurants need consistent supply. It's rewarding but relentless. Rather than walking away entirely, I'm channeling that expertise into grow kits. This lets me support the mushroom-growing community, help people access varieties they can't find in stores, and continue teaching without the physical demands of commercial production. Grow kits were always 5% of my business; now they're 100%. It's a transition I'm grateful to make.
Why are your blocks bigger than other grow kits?
We use commercial-grade 10-pound blocks because that's what produces substantial yields—2-3 pounds on the first flush. Our substrate recipe promises rapid pinset/initiation, which means more reliable fruiting.
Most retail kits use 5-pound blocks that yield maybe 1 pound total. The substrate recipe in these blocks prioritizes long shelf life over yield or speed.
These are the same block size I used commercially. The substrate composition, spawn ratio, and colonization process are identical to what supplied restaurants for a decade. You're getting commercial quality, not a toy kit.
Can I visit your growing facility?
We're not currently offering farm tours since we've transitioned from commercial production to grow kit sales. I'm not doing grow kit production myself—just sales and support.
For those interested in starting their own mushroom businesses, I offer consulting services. See the next question for details.
Do you offer consulting for people starting mushroom farms?
Yes! I offer consulting on:
- Food safety planning
- Marketing and brand building
- KPIs for a profitable enterprise
- Leveraging AI tools to improve efficiency
I'm especially interested in helping others succeed because the local mushroom industry offers many opportunities. Reach out via our contact page with details about your plans, and we'll discuss how I can support your venture. Consulting rates vary based on project scope.
Still have questions? Email us at [contact email] or reach out via our website contact form. We're here to help you grow successfully. – Farmer Elizabeth